▲ “Fashion General History (Second Edition)”, [British] Mani Fogg, translated by Chen Lei, Double Culture · China Pictorial Publishing House published
Fashion, bringing people’s pleasure and even crazy.What is people pursuing fashion crazy?The “History of Fashion” written by Mani Fog Ge has passed through the deep history. From 500 BC since 500 BC, it has been full of everything, which is like a complete encyclopedia.Through this magnificent scroll, readers can see the rich projection of human history in fashion.
Fashion is an upgraded version of fashion power expression
What is fashion?This seems to be well known, but it is difficult to summarize in one or two sentences.
As far as the people are concerned, the word fashion is “exported”, but in history, fashion has never been absent. For example, the opening and freedom of women in the Tang Dynasty is still impressive.Fashion is inseparable from fashion, and fashion is the mainstream of fashion history.Mani opened the door and pointed out: “Fashion (fashion) is derived from Latin ‘Facito’, which literally means ‘production’, which is used to represent a variety of values, including consistency and social connection, rebellion and weird, Social desire and status, temptation and deception have a huge concept of differences. The desire to dress up breaks through the restrictions of history, culture, and geography. Although the form and content may be different, the motivation is the same.”” “
Mani’s explanation is very comprehensive. The main meaning is nothing more than in this way. At the moment, fashion symbolizes a value, which is a manifestation of identity; in fashion, there is both inheritance of history and rebellion, and often mixed with people’s vision;Fashion is essentially an external dress of the body.
The first stage of the history of human civilization is quite simple.About 11,000 years ago, human beings gradually separated from fishing and hunting collection and started settlement.The human ancestors used only the animal skin and plants that were only used to protect the cold or camouflage, and gradually performed into clothing.The survival conditions are bad, the supplies are short of, and the human beings do not have much choice. Those who can wear animal skin are likely to be the “heads” who have greater power.
The connotation of power given by clothing has become an important carrier for the ruling class to defend the “sacred” status.To this end, the ruling class has worked hard to push new on the clothing to show off the superiority of power.
“The concept of fashion is usually unique to Western society and originated in the court of the 14th century.” At that time, the development of European business economy, capitalism began to sprout, and the emerging citizen class increased.”The birth of the fashion industry” is to ensure the superiority of ruling class clothing, on the one hand, power shows unique luxury, and on the other hand, it is a “prohibited order”.
Through Mani’s display of history, we see that “the 14th century’s gorgeous palace costumes of Italy reflect the desire for luxury silk decoration”; women in the Tang Dynasty scrambled to enlarge their sleeves, so that the court had to specifically limited its size; Japan was safe in Japan.The “twelve orders” of the court women’s clothing in the era of the court actually consist of 10 to 25 separate silk.Symbol of wealth.
Forbidden luxury order is an important starting point for different power and ordinary people in the history of the Eastern and Western courts.European courts in the Middle Ages stipulated that civilians cannot wear expensive silk from the East at will. The Tokugawa Shogunate in Japan also issued the same ban. Myanmar’s ban on luxury orders focused on jewelry …
Mastering power means to grasp the right to dominance, so social aesthetics will inevitably have strong power.In this sense, fashion is also one of the crystallization of power aesthetics.For a long time in history, the focus of fashion manufacturing is often the focus of power. Therefore, there is “King Chu’s fine waist, starving to death in the palace.”The worship of power clothing, metaphorical surrender and approach to power, even not even asking.
Through the costumes of Manlanglie, we see that the apparel performance of power already existed before the 14th century. Then why did you start a fashion journey until the 14th century?This is due to the prosperity and development of European business, and on the other hand, the changes in the Renaissance.Social materials are increasingly rich, and basically the basic food and clothing has gradually improved, so as to provide an important material basis for the higher pursuit of clothing for ordinary people in society.Under the perseverance of the people, the center of power had to speed up the new steps of clothing, which in turn stimulated the people’s pursuit enthusiasm, so the clothing realized the gorgeous turn of fashion.
Fashion is the accelerated version of the fashion in the short -lived of fashion
At that time, when fashion shifted from the cold function to the so -called aesthetic significance, it was destined that it would not be too long.Coco Chanel is a classic that never dies, but it is only a brand that has not disappeared. Its connotation and form have been updated over time.Even if the tradition of “created” like a Scottish skirt is not the same as in the past, whether it is in terms of fabric or style, the difference is obvious.
Mani pointed out that “fashion is often considered disposable, repeated impermanence, and fleeting.”The famous British historian Eric Hobbes Bom wrote in “Extreme Age: 1941-1991”: “Why are outstanding fashion designers, this well-known ethnic group, sometimes it can be compared to compared toProfessional predictions predict the development of things more accurately?In the drama era, this is also a key issue for elegant culture and elite art, especially the influence of pioneers.
Fashion was born in the imitation of power and physical performance. Therefore, “fashion is very good at‘ borrowing ’. It not only draws on different cultures, but also draws inspiration from different historical age.”Fashion develops in the improvement of production levels, that is, the industrial era. Under the sought after the competition of various new technology fabrics, new technologies, and the media, although there are still customized fashion such as “Centennial Store” Huarun Tiannu, fashion has been made.Industrial fast lane.This also shows that the more developed technology, the more concepts, and the shorter the fashion.
Industrialization provides conditions for the rapid development of fashion, but fashion is not naturally manufactured by the assembly line.There is a continuation of history in fashion, as well as rebellion of reality, just like the absurd unruly clothes in the American hippie.Fashion is the product of society first, and technology is only one of the factors.But historical factors often occupy an extremely important position.”From 1850 to 1860, men (Britain) men had to change clothes four times a day”, and “Prince Wales’s addiction to clothing -he usually changed six sets of clothes every day -he opened a head for fashionable people.”Without these historical precipitation, fashion may not be another look.
No matter how stunning fashion is just a flash, it is just a flash.In 1856, he obtained a patent -lining skirt in the UK. It seems bulky today, but it was all the rage at the time.It provides a lot of acceleration for fashion. The historic court is the first, and it is like a big stage.Today, the entertainment industry is sitting in a fashionable head challenge.Hollywood is undoubtedly the biggest promoter in the fashion industry in the last century.Under the help of light and shadow art, a large number of celebrities such as Hepburn and Monroe competed to become the leader of fashion trends.Fashion also benefits from the rapid development of media technology. Text, photos, light and shadow, etc. have a comprehensive in -depth involvement in fashion, helping to maximize the influence of fashion to maximize the influence of fashion, and attract more people into the trend of fashion.
Another force that promotes fashion development cannot be ignored.Mani pointed out that the Japanese Edo period was very strict in terms of dressing, but “senior prostitutes often dress according to the most popular fashion.”Wu Renshu also pointed out in the book “Luxury Woman: The Consumption Culture of Jiangnan Women in the Ming and Qing Dynasties” that as a high -income group in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, some “socially lost women” did play the role of pursuing fashion or even leading the trend.
Interestingly, unlike the power of power in history, the focus of fashion is deliberately manufactured. With the deodorization of modern politics, the distance between power and civilians is increasingly closer, and the difference between class differences through material manufacturing becomes increasingly difficult.This means that power is no longer the initiative of fashion butterfly.With the exit of power, the business and entertainment community quickly made up for the re -remedy.Today, although there are still sporadic political figures in several well -known showers in the world, entertainment stars are frequent customers on the red carpet.The entertainment industry is synonymous with fashion, and fashion is like a business card that never fades in the entertainment industry.
Fashion is a concentrated version of fashion power aesthetics
Aesthetic, benevolent sees benevolence, wise people are wise, but fashion is different and has obvious public identity characteristics.What kind of fashion is in line with the public’s aesthetic taste, this is extremely difficult to answer.If the fashion beauty that people are obsessed with in history are essentially the beauty of power, what is the symbol of fashion today?
In 1750, a German philosopher, known as the “Father of Aesthetics”, defined in his monograph “Aesthetics”: “Aesthetic (theory of free art, low -level epistemology, beauty of beauty and rational thinkingArt) is a science of perceptual understanding.Specializing in ethics that specializes in ‘meaning’, then it should also be established a science that specializes in researching ‘love’, otherwise the philosophical system is incomplete. “According to its definition, aesthetics is the product of the acquired cognition. The newborn baby does not know what is beautiful and ugly. It is only when power clarifies the connotation of beauty and ugliness, and society has really aesthetic.
It is the aesthetics of power, which covers the society aspects. Fashion is only a concentrated version of power aesthetics.”Louis XIV believes that fashion is a symbol of absolute power.”After the Manchu entered the Central Plains, through the crushing of strength, he not only changed the Han people on the clothing, but also forced to leave the iconic long braid.However, the Han people refused to fight the long braids at the beginning. When the Qing Dynasty was overwhelmed, many people fought against this “ancestor family business”.Once the aesthetics of power penetrates into the bone marrow, it has become a life over time. In the past, it was not only observed, but also seeing another “beauty”.
Of course, some fashion in history does not have obvious compulsory significance. Power has only conducted some demonstrations, and still benefit people today.”Huahua Gongzi Brumel also let people start paying attention to personal hygiene issues. He brushed, shaved and bathing every day.”Brumel’s fashion move has become the daily life of most people today.
As a book presenting fashion development rather than exploring the cause, this book may cause readers to generate other questions.For example, in the French and British court fashion, male fashion has occupied an absolute position. Why did fashion have later become female paradise?Another point is that fashion is not negative. For example, it will cause huge waste, and it may have a negative impact on the environment -Europeans’ fanaticism on fur clothing has directly spawned the trade of North American fur for three centuries.There are severe survival crises such as beaver, beaver, sea otter and buffalo.
Author: Chen Bin
Edit: Xue Weiping
Editor in charge: Zhang Yu